Outdoor Image Fixed in Photoshop: Better Sky ~ Better Lighting

Thanks to Karen Gunton of Smile, Play, Love Photography in Australia, for sending in this Blueprint.

Karen wrote: The sun was behind this family. The camera could not handle the dynamic range and I did not have fill flash or a reflector.  The sky was blown and their faces were quite dark. I actually have the same shot from the other side of the family, as they were looking at the ocean, and it includes a gorgeous blue sky, so I wanted to try to save this photo so that I could give both shots to the family.

The first thing I had to do was fix mom’s eyes – it looks like she was just about to blink! So I cloned better eyes from another shot (one where the baby was hiding her face!). To do this, I used the clone tool. At the same time I decided the dead treetops were distracting so I cloned those out too. Then I went on to my regular editing steps.

  1. Ran Imagnomic’s Noiseware at default settings
  2. Used MCP actions “powder your nose” from the Magic Skin Photoshop action set to remove the bruise from the baby’s forhead – set at default opacity.
  3. Bumped the midtones in Curves
  4. Added contrast with light s-curve using Curves
  5. Used MCP actions “touch of light” free photoshop action to reduce the shadows on all of their faces – set at 60% opacity
  6. Used the Magic See-Saw action from the Bag of Tricks action set to adjust the skin tones and color – added red/reduced cyan, added yellow/reduced blue.
  7. Flattened the image and used MCP actions “fake blue sky” action from the Bag of Tricks set and left it at the default opacity. This action worked like a charm! It looks so real and identical to the sky in another image taken in a different direction where I did not have a blown sky.

adding a fake blue sky in photoshop


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Senior Photography: Tips and Tricks on Posing, Locations and More

Senior Photography: Tips and Tricks on Posing, Locations and More

With Fall coming, photographers are getting ready for photograph high school seniors again.  This style of photography is very popular in the United States and is starting to gain presence in other countries.

I’m back with another compilation of links to great MCP Actions Blog articles.  My name is Jeanine and, as Jodi wrote in my first post, I’ll be writing ‘flashback’ posts that compile links on certain topics.  I often find myself searching Jodi’s blog on topics of my current interests, or pertaining to a certain shoot, or a technique that I want to practice.  I hope these posts come in handy for you and that you can put to use my time searching and utilize all the links gathered in my posts.  This time I went to my favorite resource for help on Senior Photography.  As always, feel free to comment with topics for compilation posts that you would like to see.

I shot my first Senior this week, and it didn’t hurt a bit!  I read up on everything here on the MCP Actions Blog.  Actually I had shot one before but that was a quick mini-session with a girl on her way to prom.  This one involved multiple locations and clothing changes.  You gotta love photographing someone that doesn’t chase after squirrels and has the ability to stay just where you want them.  Working with seniors comes with it’s own challenges.  I was truly lucky that my client was very comfortable in front of the camera.  I credit these MCP Actions Blog articles with getting me more comfortable behind the camera as I break into this new market area.  Now is a great time for Senior sessions as they begin that special school year.

To get you started, or freshen up your routine with Senior Photography, try these articles.

Breaking into the Senior Photography Market

Senior Photography: How to Find Great Locations

How to Pose Seniors

Photographing Seniors {An interview with Photography by Natalie B}

What to Wear:  How to Dress Teens and Seniors for a Portrait Session

web11 Senior Photography: Tips and Tricks on Posing, Locations and More

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Photoshop Actions: A Guide to Choosing the Best Actions

Photoshop Actions: Which Actions are Best for Your Photos?

So imagine this… You sit down at your computer to edit in Photoshop or Elements. And you want your editing to go faster and more smoothly.  You decide that you want to buy some Photoshop actions. But how do you decide which ones to purchase? And which should you use once they are loaded in your actions palette?

blue skies in photoshop

I frequently get emails asking, “how do I know which set to buy (or use)?”  Remember there are hundreds of companies making actions now. You need to find and use products that educate you with their use and help you achieve the look you want. We hope that you love what you see at MCP Actions, but for certain looks, you may need to stray a bit too. Do your homework, and make sure you buy from a company that has excellent customer service and fully supports their products, with help and tutorials.

Here are 10 tips: A guide to help you choose the best actions for your specific photos.

  1. Try before you buy: MCP Actions has an assortment of single Free Photoshop actions so you can get to know our style.
  2. Look through before and after examples on each individual product page to see the types of looks you can achieve. If you start stacking your edits, and mixing in more than one set, you can create a wider variety of looks.
  3. Experiment: Try things and write down your steps on an index card.  For looks that you like, keep a little card box with your “Blueprints.”
  4. Blueprints: Most Fridays I share Blueprints sent in by customers, or occasionally ones that I make into before and afters, with step-by-step instructions.
  5. MCP Facebook Page: Join MCP on Facebook and post your questions and answers to the “wall.” Ask other photographers, what they would use or how to get the look you want. Feel free to share your images using MCP’s Photoshop actions. Look through older “wall” posts and photos uploaded by other photographers.
  6. Search the Blog: Search for Photoshop tutorials, look under specific categories for lessons, and check out past Photoshop video tutorials.
  7. Search the Website: Search for products in the top drop down sections (under “actions” and “training”) – you can organize by the version of Photoshop you have (for example, you could click on Shop By Photoshop “Version” and select “Photoshop CS5” or “Elements 8“). You can also search by “Category” and even “Keywords.”
  8. Educate Yourself: When deciding what actions you want to use, take the time to watch the Photoshop actions video tutorials and Elements actions video tutorials that come with each product.  You can find these 2 places, through the links on the product pages and under “Training.”
  9. Take Notes: As you start using the Photoshop actions, write down which are your favorites and what looks you get with them.
  10. Organize Your Actions: After you use certain action sets for a while, you may find that you use some all the time, and others rarely. Learn to organize your Photoshop actions in this video tutorial for a faster, more efficient workflow.

COMING TOMORROW: A Glossary of MCP Actions. Learn which MCP Actions are best for your photos.

resizing photoshop action

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Editing Landscape Images Using Actions in Photoshop

At the beginning of June, I attended a Photography gathering in Banff, which is in Alberta, Canada. It was absolutely breathtaking.  Snow covered mountain tops everywhere.  And since I live in Michigan, it wasn’t like anything I get to see often.

I took this shot from the hotel.  Yes, this really was our view! This photo is beautiful, but the trees in the foreground were dark and the photo lacked contrast.

Mountains in Banff Canada

Above is the original photo, straight out of camera.  It just needed a lift.

Here are steps I took to get from the before to the after using Photoshop actions and layer masks.

  1. To enhance the color of the sky, I used “Sky is Bluer Illusion” – a Photoshop action that makes blue skies even bluer. This is included in the Bag of Tricks action set. It was way too intense for the look I wanted so I adjusted the opacity to 34%.  I could have created a really crazy, intense blue sky otherwise, but I still wanted it to look real.
  2. I wanted some contrast, but with flat photos like this it’s very hard to add contrast. What happens usually… the dark areas get even darker, almost like a blob. So, I needed to just affect the mid-tones.  I used “Magical Clarity” from the Bag of Tricks set – this action adds mid-tone contrast in Photoshop.
  3. I did not love the color of the trees in this image.  I felt they were too deep green.  I used the “Grass is Greener” action from the Bag of Tricks, to paint on a richer, more vibrant color green. The layer opacity was at 67%, but I only painted the green on at 16%. The effect was subtle, but added to the photo.
  4. The last things I wanted to do all had to deal with lightening and darkening. The tree area looked too dark. I fixed this by using “Peek-a-Boo” from the Complete Workflow set.  This action finds the shadow areas and lightens them. I lowered the opacity of this layer to 64%.
  5. Then I used the free Photoshop action, “Touch of Light/Touch of Darkness” to finish the photo. With the lightness layer selected, and using a low opacity brush, I painted on the trees, one side of each to add dimension. Then with the darkness layer selected, I painted on the sky to deepen the color a bit.

The whole edit took about 3 minutes. And the result is below:

using actions in photoshop for blue sky

 Editing Landscape Images Using Actions in Photoshop

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How To Create a High Key Image in Photoshop

How To Create a High Key Image in Photoshop by Michael Sweeney

A classic look in photography is Black and White imagery. Black and white images are not always pure; sometimes they are sepia tone or cool blue tone, or even Duotone which is not B/W but most drop it into that catagory. It’s a timeless look and with the right image, and a very powerful look. For professional photographers, it can also be a lifesaver with a high ISO grainy image or an image with incorrect exposure.

I am going to show you today how I recovered an overexposed image into a usable image. I shot it with a wide open F1.4, 50mm (crop sensor so about 80mm) and the between the wide open lens and the lighting, I had an over exposure or perhaps it’s better to call it “flare” going on.

You see my original image of my model below.

high key photography

Original Image

I always start my editing workflow in Lightroom. Then I go into Photoshop for any heavy lifting that Lightroom either can not do or does do it well. One of my first steps is to always apply a camera profile preset which brings in the various settings to match my camera, in this case, a Nikon D300. Then I will apply a Black and White conversion preset and do some basic adjustments. As you can see, I apply the camera preset and then I use a B/W conversion preset from Jack Davis.

BAM – FREE Camera Dojo free Lightroom preset.
WOW BnW_02 – FREE Jack Davis B/W conversion preset from his How to WOW series

Once I have these two presets applied, I tweaked it a bit in Lightroom as I show here.

Highlights +40

Darks +75

Shadows -19

sharpness -80

The sharpness has been dialed down to let me run the noise clean up, then I reapply the sharpness as needed.

luminance +54

color noise +27

sharpness +40

After Lightroom Conversion

After Lightroom Conversion

Even with Lightroom and Jack’s black and white magic, the image is still pretty much middle gray which I despise. So now we drop into Photoshop to really start tweaking the image to a high key look.

My first step is apply a curves layer in Photoshop. This brings out the whiteness of the skin.

how to use curves to brighten skin

curve example

Then I make a duplicate layer and start to sample the image and paint it using the samples. I should point out here that while you can do this with a mouse, sort of, it is much better to have a tablet like a Wacom that is pressure sensitive. I can not stress how useful a tablet is when editing like this and you need a very delicate touch.

This editing evened out the shadow under the chin. I made the eyelashes darker, whites of the eyes brighter and so on.

After Curves Adjustment in Photoshop

After PS Curves Adjustment

Once I have all my painting finished, I apply a blur to a duplicate layer of the painted image. I then apply a layer mask to hide the new blurred layer. Now I use my Wacom again to paint in the blur at something like a 20% opacity.

high key black and white image

Final Image

You can see that we have gone from a blah image to a dramatic black and white image in the high key style. This style of image really shows off her eyes and the overall beauty of her face without the distractions of lens flare, color and and so on. If you were to print this on black and white paper or aluminum and you have an amazing piece wall art. And if you do this for a client, you are sure to get lots of interest in more types of prints like this. Everyone likes to look like a million dollars and this type of image really does it well.

About Michael Sweeney @Michael Sweeney Photography
I started my visual career by drawing incessantly from the time I was old enough to be trusted with a box of crayons. Now days I blend my photography skills with my extensive knowledge of technology to produce images that are both classic and state of the art
.

 How To Create a High Key Image in Photoshop

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Angie Monson – Simplicity Photography – Photoshop Actions

I often get emails asking how to edit like a specific photographer in Photoshop. One such photographer I get questions about often is Angela Monson of Simplicity Photography. Her work is stunning and colorful, and I am lucky enough to have her as an online friend.  Angie has her own unique look and way of editing, and as a rule, she rarely ever uses any Photoshop actions in her retouching.  She hand edits her images. And while this is great and it works amazingly for her, many of her followers, and mine, want to know how to achieve a similar look in Photoshop.

The closest way to achieve the Angie Monson look using Photoshop actions are using products from the following sets: Bag of Tricks, Quickie Collection, and All in the Details actions.  In honor of a contest I have going on this week on her blog (where you can win a $100 gift certificate to MCP Actions), she sent me a SOOC image of her children to edit with my actions.

I edited a few images for her blog a while back too – you may enjoy these before and after images as well.

For this new image that she sent me, here are step-by-step photo editing techniques I used by running MCP’s Photoshop actions. I did one color popped version and then an alternate version with a more vintage feel.

  1. Started by using the Magic Fill Light Action from the Bag of Tricks to shine light into the shadow areas of the image. Layer opacity set to 100%. Masked back the background.
  2. Next I used the Magical Clarity Action from the Bag of Tricks to give dimension to the background and add detail to the fields. Layer opacity set to 70%. Masked back the children’s skin so it would stay smoother.
  3. To add vibrant color to the clothing and the background and fields, I used Finger-paint Medium from the Quickie Collection. I painted this on with a 100% brush everywhere except the skin and hair.
  4. To add overall contrast and pop to the photo, I used the Color Flair action from the Quickie Collection. Used this at the default opacity.
  5. I still wanted more contrast, so I ran the Magical Contrast Action from the Bag of Tricks.  I selected the medium strength and set that layer to 100% opacity.
  6. Lastly, to give the photo a slightly more refined look, I used the Free Photoshop action, Touch of Light/Touch of Darkness. I painted the lightness layer on the skin and on the lighter areas of denim using a 30% opacity brush.  I then painted the darkness layer on the background and some of the clothing, again using a 30% brush.

how to edit like angela monson of simplicity photography

I personally love vibrant color and rich contrast. But I also wanted to show you an alternate edit.  I used step 1-6 and edited on top of that completed image.

  1. I ran the Hazy Days Vintage Photoshop action: Rainbow Sherbet action, which is part of the Frosted Memories set – and turned on the “Day at the Lake” and “Sunrise” layers and set the opacity of each to 17%.
  2. Next I used a browned tone vignette action by using Toasted Edges, which is also part of the Frosted Memories action set – and set the opacity to 61%.

And those were the only steps needed besides resizing to share – to go from the after above to the vintage look below.  Now it’s your turn to weigh in.  Do you prefer the more color popped, vivid look, or the more subdued classic look?  One clearly is more my style, but I would love to hear what you like best.

angela monson vintage photoshop action

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Photography Tips: Shooting in Full Sun at any time of the Day

Shooting in full sun…..yikes, it strikes fear in the heart of many! It’s not as easy as overcast skies but sunlight adds specularity and contrast to a photograph that a flat overcast day will never yield.

So, let’s start with shooting in the middle part of the day. It’ll never be as good as shooting early in the morn or late in the afternoon, evening. But it is possible…especially with kids older than 3yo. You can still get toddlers at this time but seriously try to avoid it unless you can get plenty of shade because you can guarantee they’ll give their best pearly white smile, when their face is half lit and half in shade hehe.

So what to do when someone can only do a session at midday? And believe me it does happen, I recently had a family whose Dad was only in Melbourne for a few hours and could get to me at 11am the earliest. In these situations there are a few tricks that you can employ to pull something out of the box.

First let me tell you why early morning and evening light works best. The sun is lower to the horizon and is  further away from us than at midday. Therefore it has to travel through more atmosphere, which diffuses and softens the light. As sun is low in the sky, it is easy put it behind your subject, or behind a tree, or a building, and the shadows from the trees and buildings are longer giving you more room to work. In addition the shadows are longer and not as dense and the highlights aren’t as bright, ie – not as much contrast.

blocking sun trees Photography Tips: Shooting in Full Sun at any time of the Day

Now keeping this in mind it is quite simple to shoot in the middle of the day. In the early morning or late afternoon you can put a tree or building behind your subject to block the sun. We do exactly the same in the mid afternoon BUT, your subject will need to be very close to the shade source as the shadows are short.  OR you’ll need to get down low to shoot UP at your subject as SHOOTING FROM BELOW YOUR SUBJECT PUTS THE SUN BEHIND THEM or a tree or whatever. Shooting up at a subject is usually an unattractive angle BUT by getting them to lean forward over their belt buckle will change that angle and make it attractive. This simple little bit of knowledge makes the ‘impossible’ now ‘POSSIBLE’ – yayayayay!

These next few images I took between noon and 1pm. It was my son’s 6th birthday and it was in the January (midsummer here in Australia). Now let me say that our sun down-under  is so harsh and bright, the only sun I’ve found brighter is in Northern Australia! On this day we were at a park with some trees that only gave dappled shade.

In the below image, my son was at the top of the slide and I down on the ground. By getting him to lean over the top and look down at me I got the sun behind both him and a tree.

boy on slide in full sun, Melbourne

The next trick is to look EXACTLY at where the sun is placed. There is only a very short time at the absolute middle of the day where the sun is DIRECTLY overhead. This means that you can turn your subject so that they are in front of the sun even if only by a little.

In the next image I got my daughter to turn away from the sun, I do have some shadow from the peak of her hat and a teeny bit of side-lighting but it is a sale-able image regardless. I would have done better to take the hat off.

Girl in Cowboy hat, full sun Melbourne

And I’ve done the same thing with the image of them on the slide, I’ve employed 2 tactics here, getting the sun just the teeniest bit behind them AND I’ve crouched down low and shot up at them to get the sun right behind them and the trees behind. I have some hot spots on my daughters arm but I wouldn’t hesitate to sell this image

happy kids playing on slide in park Melbourne

You can also use any shade that you can find. In the below image, you can see here I have the TEENIEST bit of shade but I used it. Shooting from above and getting him to look up toward the lightsource (sky) has lit up under his cap and his eyes too. You can see where the shade ends, in fact his forearms and hands are bright and have some hot spots.

boy in sand pit in park Melbourne

FIRST TREE OF THE FOREST GUIDE

Another tool is the ‘FIRST TREE OF THE FOREST’ guide. Simply place your subject in front of the first tree of the forest (or park in this case). By putting them under the first tree you block the downward rays from the sun, and because the forest is behind them, and they are looking out to the open and bright area, it lights their faces and their eyes. It is the same principle as placing your subject in a doorway looking out, or that yummy garage light. You’ll get awesome catch-lights when you do this.

Here my daughter is under the first pine tree of a clump of trees. The light under these trees was dappled (see the spotty light behind) so I had to put her right up next the trunk.

girl in cowboy hat, in park against tree Melbourne

This next  picture employs the same principle. Only instead of a tree it is a tunnel. If they were on the other side they would be lit by direct harsh sunlight. You can clearly see how overhead the sun is here by how little the shadows are. They were facing a very bright sand pit which worked as a natural reflector (but was a bit too glarey for my light sensitive boy).

kids sitting in tunnel at park Melbourne

THE IMPORTANCE OF DYNAMIC RANGE

I need to digress a little here, and I hope it isn’t too techinical, but it is so important as it directly affects us photographers.
Our cameras, typically, are capable of recording 5 stops worth of exposure. So from the darkest pixel to the lightest will only be 5 stops.
Now there is our conundrum, our big problem – most outdoor scenes are approx 10 stops. So we have a camera which is able to record 5 stops worth of information, which means that there is 5 stops that our camera is unable to capture, these are our clipped shadows and blown highlights! All we need to do then is reduce our dynamic range, thus making it possible for our camera to record more information.

There are 3 ways to do this in full sun.

Fill flash

Reflector
Diffuser

If your subjects are old enough to sit still you can use a reflector or a diffuser.

A REFLECTOR lifts the exposure in the shadows and does a couple of desirable things…

  • reduces the exposure range by adding light and lifting the dark shadows,
  • lights up the eyes and gives a catchlight,

And you don’t need to learn fill flash and ratios to do this, it is visually obvious when the light is hitting your subject right!
And a reflector can be anything from a purpose made photographic one, to a sheet of white coreboard, a light coloured wall or bright window, the sea, the sand, the concrete on the ground or even someone in a white shirt!

I used a reflector in the image below, see the sparkle in her eyes, without it she’d have been very underexposed.

AP9 9665 Photography Tips: Shooting in Full Sun at any time of the Day

Sometimes you will come across some people who are really light sensitive and can squint at the light bouncing off the reflector.

This is when we’d use a DIFFUSER.

A Diffuser works by subtracting exposure in the highlights, and in diffusing them. The diffuser is placed between the sun (or light source ie window etc) and decreases the exposure range by subtracting light and therefore reducing and softening the highlights

Diffusers are great for squinters as it reduces the intensity of the light and doesn’t throw bright light into their faces.
You can buy photographic diffusers, most 5in1 reflector kits will have one! But using tree foliage, net curtains, anything that you can filter the sun through will act as a diffuser.

The below photos were taken with a diffuser.

The photo of the little girl was taken late in the morning (around 11am), see how soft the light is on her hair. If I’d not used the diffuser her hair would have definitely blown out.

girl playing in grass Melbourne

This photo of the teen was later in the afternoon and the sun was coming in behind. I needed the diffuser to keep her hair and her shoulder exposed correctly.

teen girl against tree Melbourne

When all is said and done, have a go – it’s not that scary! Take the time to see the light, and where it’s coming from. This will help you more than anything I can ever write!

Amanda is an established portrait photographer and owner of Amanda’s Photography, Melbourne, Australia -www.amandasphotography.com.au She specialises in photographing babies, kids and families both on location and in her Melbourne studio. Amanda’s Photography has been in business for 10 years,  so Amanda has extensive experience in shooting outdoors in the harsh Australian sun – “Once (the sun) was my worst photographic enemy,  now my best friend”!

 Photography Tips: Shooting in Full Sun at any time of the Day

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Boudoir Photography: How to Enhance Your Images with Photoshop Actions

Boudoir photography requires great lighting, flattering poses, and often the use of photo editing using Photoshop actions.  When doing Boudoir photography, you want the woman you are photographing to feel special and beautiful.  And while you still want the photo to portray her, Photoshop can help enhance her most positive traits and minimize any flaws or areas where she is self-conscience. This photo was submitted and edited by Camilla Binks of Camilla Photography.

Here is the before and after Camilla submitted plus how she achieved it:

Before:

woman posing in a robe

After:

woman posing in robe for boudior

The step-by-step:

  1. Started with the Touch of Light Free Photoshop action with 20% opacity brush a bit on hair, face near carpet and hand to brighten up skin and select areas
  2. Next I used the Magical Clarity action from the Back of Tricks to increase midtone contrast
  3. Then I used All in the Details- Color Action which pulls out details and pops color of the image
  4. Patch and Clone tool to remove vein on forehead and bags under eyes.
  5. To pull out spot colors, I used the Color Finder Brush from the Bag of Tricks at 20% brushed everywhere except skin and hair
  6. Then I ran the Magic Skin – skin smoothing Photoshop action for a creamy skin
  7. Used Extreme Fill Flash from the Quickie Collection at 10% layer opacity
  8. Finished with Quickie Collection-Snap Photoshop action (I always use this!)

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The Secret to Creating a Vintage SX-70 Style Image in Photoshop!

Create a SX-70 Style Vintage Image Using Photoshop by Jen Kiaba

Vintage is in, in a big way. From boutiques to magazines, everywhere you look it seems as though everything resonates with a tad of nostalgia. Personally, I love adding a little touch of vintage romance to my photography in Photoshop; when you pick your subjects carefully you can give your photos a timeless look without making them look dated.

There are varying levels of complexity to creating a vintage style photo. To begin with, I will share with you a very easy way to give your images a tonal quality that is reminiscent of the film from days of yore!

The other day I was browsing my friend Romin’s photography blog – he is the mastermind behind the Seattle-based Saia Weddings Photography Studio. His style, while not strictly Linkvintage, often evokes hints of classic film cameras – such as the Diana and the SX-70.

Most recently he posted a photo that made my jaw drop – he had mimicked the warm tones and softness of the Vintage Polaroid SX-70 so well!
Sx-70 Style Photo by Romin Johnson
Knowing that he shoots digitally, and that the image was not actually captured on film, I had to know his secret! Note the warm tones of the sky and the landscape. Without going overboard, he has created an image that references the instant film that was so popular several decades ago.

Luckily for me, he was happy to share how to give your photos that touch of faded whimsy!

According to Romin, the trick is to pick a few warmer tones from your original photo:

sx 70 color pick 600x753 The Secret to Creating a Vintage SX 70 Style Image in Photoshop!

With these colors in your palette, create a new Gradient Map Layer:

Create a gradient map layer with warm tones

At first it will look like this (but worry not!):

A Gradient Map has been created with warm colors

Set this layer to the Soft Light blending mode.

A vintage style photo created using a warm toned gradient map in Photoshop

Now everything has that warm softness that old Vintage Polariod SX-70s were so famous for! The only problem is that the skin looks a little too pink.

Try painting out some of the Gradient Map by using a medium opacity black brush the Layer Mask over your subjects’ faces just to make sure that the effect hasn’t gone overboard.

Sx-70 style photograph created in Photoshop

According to Romin, this trick works best with high-key, back lit or side lit photos!

Voila! You should have an image that begins to resonate with a romantic vintage style:

A Vintage Style Enagement Portrait by Jen Kiaba Photography

red The Secret to Creating a Vintage SX 70 Style Image in Photoshop!
Jen Kiaba
is a photographer, photojournalist and designer living in the Hudson Valley, NY.

She specializes in creating whimsical  vintage-style images for editorial and commercial art as well as for happy couples!

 The Secret to Creating a Vintage SX 70 Style Image in Photoshop!

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